Tuesday, 26 February 2013

Magic days

The high pressure that has lasted over the past week or so has seen some fantastic days on the mountains. There are many routes in great condition.
Last week Kev and I headed up Green Gully (IV,3) to make the most of the sunny weather. A fairly early start saw us first in the Coire and we had the route all to ourselves for about an hour. After that there seemed to be team after team all heading for the same route! We counted at least 4 teams below us. The route was in easy nick with plenty parts stepped out, belays stances stamped out and the climbing on styrofoam type ice- all great fun!


On Thursday and Friday I was working for the West Highland College. Myself and Jamie B took a group of students up on the gondola at Nevis range to look at basic winter skills. We found some nice neve for step kicking and cutting in the Nid area as well as some good low angle water ice for cramponing. The snow was all a bit too hard to do much ice axe arrest practice but we were able to cover the basics.
Friday was a stunning forecast so we headed up to Carn Mor Dearg on more of a journey day letting the students put into practice what we had covered previously. The views were inspirational as we approached the summit and I could count dozens of teams out climbing on the Ben. It was nice to let the students experience the joy of the winter mountains.

Some nav practice






 Yesterday I finally got to realise one of my long term climbing ambitions and climbed Point Five Gully (V,5) on the Ben. I'd been dreaming about this route since I first starting climbing but wanted to wait until I felt comfortable leading it, conditions were good and I had a good partner. All of those things came together yesterday. Kev and I set the alarms for 0300 and a 0355 pick up saw us driving up the forestry track with bleary eyes! The walk in itself was stunning, we didn't even need headtorches as the moon was so bright it lit up the area. After realising we were going to be having a lot of hanging around in the dark we slowed the pace as we approached the hut. We could see one solitary head torch below the start to the Orion Face Direct, but otherwise the early start seemed to have paid off and we were going to be first on the route. The slog up Observatory gully seemed to take a while but before we knew it, it was time to gear up at the base of Point Five. The first pitch was great fun, stepped in places but the axe placements were bomber and the ice good enough to take some screws too. Kev breezed up the sustained second pitch which was a joy to climb. The Rogue pitch was in great condition and also a sheer pleasure to climb. A couple of icy steps on the exit slopes kept up the interest and with burning calf muscles and big smiles we topped out into brilliant blue skies and sunshine. There wasn't the need for much chat at the summit. We just soaked in the views and enjoyed the moment that no amount of money can buy.
Silly O'clock

Time to start climbing!

Pitch 1

Pitch 2




Rogue Pitch (P3)


Two happy chappies!