Showing posts with label Skye. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Skye. Show all posts

Saturday, 3 June 2017

Summer so far... (part one)




This year's summer work kicked off with a really fun and interesting Rock Climbing Rescues course with 3rd year Adventure Tourism students at West Highland College. Over the 4 days we looked at all sorts of problems that can occur when rock climbing including managing (and avoiding) tangles when climbing as a three, simple hoists and lowers past knots and damaged bits of rope. We then built up to some bigger scenarios that the students had to manage and then write an assignment on their decision making process.
Locking of belay plates and abseiling past a knot

An unassisted hoist in action
That face says it all! Escaping the system with out of reach anchors...


Rebecca cruising up Sheep Fank Wall

Problem solved!

Joe to the rescue! Rescuing an unconscious casualty on a multi-pitch climb


I had the pleasure of heading out with Gary and Ben for a half day's teaching climbing in Glen Nevis. We tackled Pinnacle Ridge and Right Wall on Styx Buttress looking at building belays and stance management on multi-pitch climbs.  Great effort guys!







 Prashant has been a regular client over the last few years and he was back this time to tackle some more mountaineering. I headed up Lagangarbh Buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor to let Prashant sample a less well travelled scramble in Glencoe.


Andy was out with the rest of Prashant's friends giving them an introduction to the Scottish hills on Buachaille Etive Beag. We then headed out as a bigger team on the SW Ridge of Meall Cumhann to give the team a feel for some scrambling (and excellent views).




 Hannah, Andy and I had a super fun day on the Ben Nevis Mountain Track with Adam and his 14 friends. A superb performance from group saw everyone battling onto the summit in 50mph winds before a hasty retreat back down the mountain!

 Having not had a lot of opportunities for personal climbing yet, with a  cracking spell of good weather, Andy and I headed to Creag Dubh to tick off a few of the classics. We climbed King Bee Direct (HVS 5a), Tip Off (VS 4c) and Brute (VS 5a). Warm rock, climbing in a t-shirt and no midges- perfect!
 Seizing a free morning, I took Robin for a quick trip up Scimitar Ridge in Glen Nevis. He made it all look very easy and we were back down for a picnic in no time at all! Scrambling definitely seems to be a fantastic way to get the kids into climbing and we'll need to step it up a bit for the next adventure!


Daddy and Robin selfie!
 Working on National Governing Body Awards (NGB's) has become something I really enjoy and I was working with SPA Provider Alan Halewood on an SPA training course for West Highland College. We visited Kingussie Crag on the first day to look at personal climbing followed by another dry day in Glen Nevis at Polldubh
Ross on Finale (VD), Kingussie

Some warm up games and bouldering at Polldubh

Rigging at SW Buttress
 Sometimes things just all fall into place and my trip to Skye at the start of May was one of those times. Malcolm had booked to do a Cuillin Ridge Traverse way back in October. Predicting dry weather even a few days before can be virtually impossible sometimes so booking some dates so far in advance is always a bit of a gamble. It paid off this time and we had 2 days of perfect weather for the UK's best mountaineering expedition. With the superb forecast we decided to add to the adventure by taking the boat from Elgol into Loch Coruisk and head up Gars-Bheinn from there. This adds an extra element of excitement to an already epic couple of days.


Abseiling into the TD gap which was bone dry!

About to tackle the TD gap

Looking towards the In Pinn
 We made excellent progress. Malcolm is an experienced scrambler and so we didn't need to use the rope very much at all. This allowed us to get a great pace and cover ground at a good speed. The dry weather also allowed us to tackle the hardest technical climb on the ridge, the TD gap. What it did mean was that water was hard to find... At the end of our first day, we'd made it as far as An Dorus and we dropped into the Coire to get our water refilled and decided to bivvy there on a flattish grassy area. This meant a short climb back up to the ridge the next day but after a decent sleep and plenty of food and rehydration, it felt like a very good call.




Malcolm enjoying the exposure on the W ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean

Job done- Sgurr nan Gillean!



 Day 2 went by very quickly and after the absorbing middle section of the ridge over the 4 tops of Sgurr a Mhadaidh and Bidien Druim nan Ramh we found ourselves standing on Sgurr nan Gillean by 1300hrs. Well done for a sterling effort Malcolm and I hope the traverse will be something to remember for a long time!

Monday, 6 June 2016

Summer in the Mountains



What a start it's been to the Summer so far! Making good use of the good weather, Dave and I headed to Skye for a couple of days traversing and expanding on our working knowledge of the ridge.
We checked out various alternative routes and bivvy sites, as well as enjoying the awesome weather in the process! A bit of a cold bivvy saw us shaking ice and frost off the sleeping bags at Bealach Glac Mhor but it didn't take long to warm up. Great to see the Cuillin at their best again!










Back home, I was working on a Summer Mountain Leader Assessment for Abacus Mountain Guides. We headed into Glencoe for the steep ground day and the Northern slopes of Meall an-t Suidhe on the final day. Well done to the candidates for some strong performances!





Last weekend I had the pleasure of guiding Pauline, Graham, Russ and Nikki on the best walking route on Ben Nevis, the CMD Arete. Stunning weather and views and great company meant for a superb day!



Last Wednesday, I met John and his son Sam who was celebrating his 12th birthday by climbing Ben Nevis. Both John and Sam have done a fair bit of hill walking so wanted a more exciting route to the summit. We headed up into Coire na Ciste and onto Ledge Route to let the chaps experience the North face of the Ben. They both cruised the scrambling, especially young Sam who looks like he'll have a great mountaineering future ahead!





On Friday I met up with returning client Graham, who I took out for a days Winter skills training in February. Graham was keen to try one of the classic scrambles in Glencoe and so we decided on the classic, Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor. Graham loved the scrambling and took it all in his stride and with some extra time in the bank, we bagged the summit of Crowberry tower before reaching Stob Dearg. Making the summit before midday and with such amazing weather, it was a no brainer to continue along the ridge to bag Graham another Munro in the process! Another memorable day on one of my favourite mountains!








 Yesterday  was one of my most enjoyable days at work I've had for a long time. Janette and Stephen had their sights set on Tower Ridge and with another blue bird day, I knew we were in for a great one! Tower Ridge has to be my favourite climb on Ben Nevis and sharing this awesome route with Janette an Stephen was an absolute pleasure! A superb performance team!









So it's been a thoroughly enjoyable start to the Summer so far and here's hoping for some more great weather through June and July!